Ironwood Outdoor Living (601) 586-5800 Free consultation
Ironwood Outdoor Living

What we build

Know what you're buying before you buy it.

Decking is one of the few purchases where the cheap option and the expensive option look identical on day one and completely different in year five. Here's the honest version — what the materials actually are, how they hold up, and what makes one deck twice the price of another.

Composite vs wood

The same deck, five years apart.

Pressure-treated pine is the cheapest deck you can build and the most expensive one to own. Drag the handle and you're looking at the difference a Mississippi summer makes.

Composite decking after several years, unchanged
Wood photo pending — Josh, one phone photo of a weathered pressure-treated deck drops in here.
Wood, 5 years on Composite

Drag the handle, or use the arrow keys.

Pressure-treated wood

Cheap to build, expensive to keep

It's the lowest number on any bid, and that's the whole of its appeal. Down here the humidity gets into it, and what follows is a maintenance schedule you didn't sign up for.

  • Wash, sand and re-stain roughly every 2–3 years
  • Splinters, cupping, cracking and popped fasteners
  • Boards rot from the underside where you can't see it
  • Colour goes grey whether you want it to or not
  • Typically a 10–15 year deck before real repairs start
Capped composite & PVC

More up front, then almost nothing

A protective cap surrounds the board, so moisture, stains and UV never reach the core. Maintenance is soap and water on a Saturday.

  • No staining, sealing or sanding — ever
  • Won't splinter, rot, cup or warp
  • Fade and stain warranties of 25–50 years
  • Hidden fasteners, so no screw heads down the boards
  • Still looks like the day it went down, in year fifteen

Product lines

Two brands, two very different materials.

Nearly every deck salesman says "composite" and stops there. There are actually two distinct materials, and the difference is worth understanding before you spend the money.

Capped composite

Wood flour and polymer, capped

A core of recycled wood fibre and plastic, wrapped in a protective shell. Heavier underfoot, warmer in tone, and the more affordable of the two. All Trex decking is capped composite, as is TimberTech's PRO range.

  • Most wood-like weight and feel
  • Best value per square foot
  • Warranties typically 25–35 years
Capped polymer (PVC)

No wood in it at all

All polymer, no organic content — so there is nothing in the board for moisture or mould to feed on. Lighter, noticeably cooler underfoot in full sun, and the best performer near pools and on the coast. This is TimberTech's AZEK range.

  • Coolest surface temperature of anything we carry
  • Best moisture and stain resistance
  • 50-year warranties across the range
Trex — all capped composite
LineTierWarranty
SignatureLuxury50-year
Transcend LineagePremium+ · cooler surface50-year
TranscendPremium50-year
SelectMid35-year
Enhance NaturalsEntry+25-year
Enhance BasicsEntry25-year
TimberTech — AZEK is PVC, PRO is composite
LineMaterialWarranty
AZEK VintagePVC Top tier · wide plank50-year
AZEK LandmarkPVC Premium+50-year
AZEK HarvestPVC Premium · wide plank50-year
AZEK Harvest+PVC Premium50-year
PRO LegacyComposite · premium30-year
PRO ReserveComposite · premium30-year
PRO TerrainComposite · mid30-year
PRO Terrain+Composite · mid30-year

The rest of it

What else goes in an outdoor room.

A deck on its own is a platform. These are the things that make people actually sit outside.

Railing

The single biggest lever on both price and how the finished deck looks. Four routes:

  • Aluminium — thin posts, long life, the least visual weight for the money
  • Cable — near-invisible horizontal runs, best where there's a view worth keeping
  • Glass — the clearest sightline and the most expensive; wind-sheltered spots only
  • Composite — matches the decking, chunkiest look, most traditional

Framing & drainage

The part nobody sees and the part that decides how long the deck lasts. Pressure-treated framing is standard; aluminium framing costs more and will outlive the boards on top of it. If you want a dry, usable space underneath, the drainage system has to be designed in from the start — it can't be added later.

Outdoor kitchens

Grill run, bar seating, refrigeration and storage. The decisions that matter are gas versus charcoal, whether you're running a water line, and how much prep counter you actually need — most people under-order counter and regret it.

Shade & pergolas

A fixed pergola gives you dappled shade and a structure. A motorised louvered roof gives you full sun or a sealed roof at the touch of a button, and costs several times more. Which one you need depends on whether you'll use the space when it rains.

Fire features

Gas fire tables are simple and safe on a composite deck. Wood-burning and masonry fireplaces need clearances, footings and often a permit — worth deciding early, because it changes the structure underneath.

Lighting

Riser lights, post caps and path lighting on one low-voltage system. This has to be wired while the deck is open. Adding it afterwards means pulling boards, so it's the cheapest thing to include and one of the most expensive to retrofit.

Siding, trim & stone

The part that ties it to the house.

A deck that looks bolted on is a deck nobody photographs. Column wraps, trim and stone are what make an outdoor room read as part of the house instead of an addition. We install three lines for this — two from Westlake Royal and one from Woodtone — and they solve three different problems.

Versetta Stone

Stone without the mason

Cast fibre-reinforced concrete panels with a 26-gauge galvanised steel strip moulded into the back. They screw or nail to the wall like siding — no lath, no scratch coat, no mortar, and no mason on site for three days.

  • Panels are 36″ × 8″, about 1½–2″ thick, and weigh roughly 17 lb each — around 8½ lb per square foot
  • Two profiles: Ledgestone for a rustic hand-laid look, Tight-Cut for something cleaner and more modern
  • A rainscreen is built into the panel, so the wall behind it can dry
  • Goes on any structurally sound surface, inside or out — column bases, fireplace surrounds, accent walls
  • Cut with a diamond blade; matching sills, corners and accessory pieces are available
TruExterior trim

Trim that can touch the ground

Poly-ash — a blend of fly ash and polymers, minimum 70% recycled content, verified by SCS Global Services. The detail that actually matters: it is rated for ground and masonry contact, which is precisely where wood trim rots and PVC moves.

  • 20-year limited warranty
  • Rated for ground contact and masonry contact — skirting, column bases, anywhere near grade
  • Barely moves with temperature, so joints stay tight instead of opening every winter
  • Cut ends and field cuts do not need priming or sealing
  • Cuts, mills and mitres with ordinary woodworking tools; no pre-drilling, and it resists splitting
  • Reversible — woodgrain on one face, smooth on the other
  • Comes pre-primed and has to be painted; it takes dark colours, which most trim will not
  • Class A fire rating (ASTM E84)
Woodtone RusticSeries

A factory finish, not a site paint job

Woodtone does not make the board — they finish it. RusticSeries is a wood-look coating applied in a factory onto either LP SmartSide engineered wood or fibre cement, so the finish goes on under controlled conditions instead of off a ladder in a Mississippi August.

  • You pick the substrate: LP SmartSide engineered wood or fibre cement, in lap, vertical panel, board-and-batten or shake
  • LP lap comes 5⅝″, 7⅝″ and 11⅝″ wide, 7/16″ thick, in 16 ft lengths with a cedar texture
  • Two separate warranties, and it is worth knowing which is which: the coating carries 20 years when factory applied, while the board itself is warranted by whoever made the substrate
  • Solid colours and two-tone woodgrain finishes, all applied before it reaches the site
  • Nothing gets painted in your yard — no weather delays, no lap marks, no repaint in year four

One thing worth saying plainly. Cladding, trim and stone are where a lot of outdoor projects quietly go wrong — not because the wrong product got picked, but because the transition between the deck and the house never got designed. We would rather work that out on paper with you than discover it on site.

What it costs

Six things that move the number.

Two decks of identical square footage can differ by a factor of three. It's almost never the boards that do it.

Height off the ground

A deck two feet up is straightforward. At six feet you're into deeper footings, taller posts, bracing and guard railing — the cost climbs faster than the height does.

Stairs

The most labour-intensive part of any deck, per square foot. A long run down to grade, or a turn with a landing, adds real money.

Railing choice

Often 20–30% of the total. Glass and cable sit at the top, composite in the middle, aluminium usually gives the best look per dollar.

Shape

Rectangles are efficient. Angles, curves, wraparounds and picture-frame borders all mean more cuts, more waste and more hours.

Site access

If materials can't get to the back yard without being carried by hand, that's labour. Steep grades, tight gates and mature trees all show up in the price.

What's already there

Tearing out and hauling off an old deck, or re-working footings that weren't done right, is work before the new deck starts.

Straight answers

The questions everybody asks.

What does a deck actually cost?

We won't pretend there's one number. The honest answer is that it depends far more on height, stairs and railing than on which board you pick. What we will do is come out, measure, and give you a real range on the spot — not a number we'd have to walk back later.

Does composite get too hot to walk on?

Any decking gets hot in direct Mississippi sun, including wood. Lighter colours run cooler than dark ones, and capped polymer runs cooler than capped composite. If barefoot comfort matters, say so early and it will shape the recommendation — Trex Transcend Lineage and the AZEK lines are the ones built for it.

Is composite worth it over pressure-treated?

If you're selling the house in two years, probably not. If you're staying, it usually is — you're trading a higher build cost for no staining, no sanding and no board replacement over the next couple of decades. The maintenance you skip is worth more than most people expect.

How long does a build take?

It depends on size, weather and whether there's demolition first. We give you a real schedule with the proposal rather than a vague promise, and one crew stays on it start to finish.

Do I need a permit?

Usually yes, and requirements differ between Flowood, Jackson, Madison, Brandon and Ridgeland. We handle the process as part of the job — it isn't something you have to work out on your own.

Can I see the materials before I commit?

Yes, and we'd rather you did. Our Flowood showroom has full-size decks and railing standing at real scale. Photographs flatten grain and colour completely — most people change their mind about a board once they've stood on it. The showroom is appointment only and we book one at a time, so you have the floor to yourself.

Can I finance it?

Yes. We work with Acorn Finance, so you can check what monthly payments would look like in about a minute. It's a soft credit check — seeing your rate doesn't affect your credit score.

Still deciding? Come look at it.

Bring your questions to the showroom, or we'll come measure your yard first. Either way it's free, and you'll leave knowing what things actually cost.

Call now Email